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Welcome back to this mini Christmas Kit series of posts! Yesterday we were discussing how Christmas is getting closer and buying a model for someone who hasn’t built one before. Essentially you will want to pickup a couple of essentials to make the build process more enjoyable! Yesterdays item was nippers. Today we are going to say the next item on the list should be tweezers.

Now you may have some around the house, and that would be fine. However I tend to find that hobbyists like to keep their hobby tools separate from their normal everyday items.

So what do you need the tweezers for? Well many of the kits come with stickers, or transfers. You can often find this out by googling the specific kit for more information. Trying to apply these stickers or transfers can be a nightmare, especially given the small nature of many of them. It is definitely easier to use a pair of tweezers to align the stickers or transfers and then smooth them into place.

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Update on the shop

I finally have an update on the shop! HMRC have provided the VAT number and EORI number for the company. I have passed on all the new details to the supplier. Hopefully I will be able to use their platform to get stock in very soon.

What happens next?

Once the stock arrives I will be able to add all the details on to the website and ensure everything in there is up to date.

As you can imagine this isn’t something that I am going to rush. I plan on ensuring that the can make the prices as competitive as possible. As well as price checking I will also be measuring all the various box sizes. With this information I can order the correct packaging.

Amongst the other items I am hoping to get my hands on one or two PG Gundam Unicorn RX-0 1/60.

How long will all this take?

I’ll be honest I don’t have a clue. I want it all to be up as soon as possible so that I can start getting models to people who want them as soon as possible.

Anything else?

I was looking at the various options for postage and there are a few options. It would appear that Royal Mail are competitive with the parcel companies. However, I do need to check on whether those options require VAT adding to them. Some of the Royal Mail options do not, and some do, as delivering the item to you is a “service” according to the way everything works apparently.

I am, however, also planning on providing the option for people to pick up their orders from me directly if they are close enough and would like to do things that way. Postage to me isn’t a way to make a bit extra, it is something that needs to be kept trimmed as close to cost as humanly possible. So if it is cheaper for you to pick an item up, then I say that is a great option.

Introduction

I ask myself this question all of the time; should I paint my models. I’m sure there are all sorts of views out there in the world, but it is one that I keep coming back to. I thought it would be interesting to explore them here.

What are the options

When asking myself should I paint my models I often cycle back to wondering what the options are. It seems to me that there are a few core options, and then variations on those.

As is

The first obvious option is to just build the model and leave it as is. With the level of detail and the colour separation on the models this still can leave you with an absolutely stunning looking piece. However even within this there can be choices to make; do you want to use the stickers, and do you want to do panel lining. The first model I ever built I used the stickers but that was it. I’ve left it pretty much as is .. purely from a “it is the first one I ever built” nostalgia point of view.

Painting – Airbrush

Another option is to paint the model using an airbrush. This can allow for some amazing detail, and shades and colour transitions. For example this example here is a lovely example. Clean and really stands out. Obviously the biggest barrier here is that to do this properly you do need to invest in some decent kit. Originally you had to have a decent motor and tank so that the airbrush flow would be consistent and not pule paint. However, I have seen some smaller USB charged air pumps reviewed recently that would appear to offer a decent smooth delivery of air. There is no doubt that this is a method that can be used to elevate your models to a whole new level.

Painting – Traditional

My final option is the traditional painting method. Many modellers will have been doing this for years with different brands of paint and different brushes. In my experience many people who start with brushes tend, at some point, to graduate to using airbrushes. However, as with everything there is nothing to say that you have to. There are some absolutely mind blowing artists/modellers out there who don’t go near an airbrush. You can achieve amazing detail and effects, and again elevate the models to an all new level.

Why would I do it?

There are a lot of reasons why you may choose to paint a model. It could be you want to change the look and feel, or it could be that you want to hide a blemish. I, for example, don’t like some of the join lines (especially on anything like a helmet) so I would prefer to fill it, and then paint it to give a smooth finish. As with anything in a hobby you shouldn’t do something just because others are. Always do what you want with your models; as long as your happy with them, and how they look, that is all that is important.

Conclusion

So in conclusion I would say go with what you want to do. Once you have paid your money it is your model, and your time. If you feel that you want to paint them then go for it. If you want to keep it stock out of the box then that is awesome as well. Ultimately I don’t believe anyone should tell you how to have fun, and modelling should be fun. As long as you are enjoying it then you will get the most enjoyment out of. Remember, if you find yourself asking yourself “should I paint my models” then go with what feels right to you.

Introduction

I recently received a HG Bracer Phoenix to build after watching some of the Pacific Rim world / universe anime which left me curious about the models. This review covers the box, what the parts look like, and the subsequent model.

In my previous post I reviewed the HG Obsidian Fury which you can find here.

The Box

The box for the HG Bracer Phoenix is slightly smaller than the other models I have built; its box dimensions are 19cm by 30cm by 5.5cm tall approximately, and as with all the boxes from Bandai the cover art is evocative of the whole world the model comes from.

Inside the HG Bracer Phoenix Box

Inside the box there is a small section of stickers and a few plastic wrapped runners. It is worth noting that I didn’t bother with the stickers on this model because I feel that it will ultimately benefit from some painting to make it standout.

Once unpacked I found the 4 runners along with the stickers. It is worth noting that as with the Obsidian Fury model the JTP-2 sprue had more parts than I needed. As is normal with these kits the runners are labelled (A, B, C, and JTP-2).

Underneath the runners was also the all important manual. Again this features some stunning artwork and helps add to the feel of the product. The art is also laid out in the same format as the Obsidian Fury front cover.

HG Obsidian Fury Build

The build itself runs along the same process as building the other HG grade models. Starting with the kits head, I then moved on to the torso, arms, and finally the legs.

I found the instructions easy to follow, and used the normal tactics of cut from the runner leaving a small piece, then trimming with a knife. To clean up visible areas where they were cut from the sprue I used 800 grit sandpaper, before finishing it with 3000 grit sandpaper. On the Obsidian Fury build (here) I used 3000 grit only and it took forever. By using the 800 grit first, and being careful, I increased the speed of the build without compromising the quality of finish.

The Final Model

After approximately one and a half days of assembly I finally had the model complete.

Pros and Cons

I really enjoyed this build. However, a couple of the pieces of the manual could do with more clarity, and I found myself, a couple of times, having to triple check to make sure what I was doing made sense. There is also an odd combination on this model between the smaller sections and the larger armour pieces. The finished model is smaller compared to the other models and with him in a crouch position he comes up to just above the Obsidian Fury’s waist. That said, personally I prefer this model to the Obsidian Fury and for me it feels more sturdy and I like the overall look of the model. I would buy it again, and I would buy it if it was twice the size!

Thanks for reading this HG Bracer Phoenix review. Please check out the other articles on the site, and let us know if there is anything you would like us to cover.

Introduction

Bandai are due to release the Gundam HG Pharact model towards the end of this year. Certainly the renders of the model (as seen below) look absolutely stunning. At the moment there appears to be only a little information available about the model. However, below is what we do know so far.

HG PHARACT Shipping Date

The most recent update for European shipping has an estimated arrival date of January 2023. Obviously this could slip due to the global shipping / transport conditions but that is the estimate at the moment.

Estimated Cost

At the moment it is looking like the RRP for the model in the UK should be around the £20 price range. However most retailers (ourselves if we are fortunate to get them in stock will likely have them at slightly less.

External Links – HG PHARACT

• Fandom Wiki Page
• Gundam Info Page
• Blogspot Page

Shop Update

This is just a brief shop update to keep everyone in the loop. Everything is currently setup except for the VAT number and EORI number. I have, unfortunately, no control over this. I have to wait until HMRC have completed their checks and issued the ID. As soon as I have that I can put an order in for stock. So if there is anything you are interested in me looking to order in please let me know.

However, that doesn’t mean I have been sitting back and doing nothing while prepping to provide the shop update! On top of making sure the shop is configured and ready to accept the products. I have also tested the email integration and been working on social media accounts. I will update more on those once we get posting.

In the meantime feel free to checkout RX-78-2 Head Prep where I go through the process I went through in prepping my RX-78-2 Gundam head for making the join line disappear. It looked like the image below before I did the work on it!

I will keep everyone updated as I learn more. Thanks everyone for your patience, and here is hoping we can build a great portal to let you purchase the models you want at prices that are as pocket friendly as possible.

What model grade should I start with is often an opening question. As a general rule of thumb as you step up through the grades, they have more parts, they take longer to build, and they are more complex. Roughly speaking from simplest to most complex the grades go as follows.

Grades
HG (High Grade)
RG (Real Grade)
MG (Master Grade)
PG (Perfect Grade)

What is your starting point. What experience do you have?

I have been building war-game models since they were pretty much available. I started with the solid cast lead models, and then the larger multi pieces like dragons etc. As time went on the materials changed but a lot of the techniques remained the same.

As a side note some people refer to sprues but in Gunpla they refer to them as runners. I would describe them both as just a plastic frame with the model parts attached.

Model Grade for someone with no experience

Ok so you have 0 experience and you are wondering what model grade you should begin with. There are entry grade models available but I will be honest and say I’ve never built one and in most cases it shouldn’t be necessary. I would go for one of the HG kits. There are a huge number so do some research. You want to find one that you like, but that is also not going to have any known issues. My very first build was the GX-9901-DX GUNDAM DOUBLE X Satellite System Loading Mobile Suit. (HG After War – 163). I have just cut out the pieces, sanded them down a bit and clicked them together. I am very happy with how this came out. The instructions were easy to follow (ignore the textual descriptions and use the diagrams).

Model grade for someone with previous model building experience

OK so you are used to building models. That may be planes, boats, or war-games. In essence the methods and techniques are normally fairly transferable. Cut out pieces attach pieces. The big bonus here is that unless you get a very old kit (always double check) you shouldn’t need any glue for a standard build. That means none of those “I can’t detach my thumb and index finger” moments. I would probably still recommend going for a HG model or two to get the feel for the models. I find they are relatively inexpensive compared to the other ranges, and still offer some beautiful looking models with no customisation’s necessary. However based on my massive experience (of 1 and a 1/2 builds so far both HG builds) I would say that if you are competent and confident and want to try something a little more challenging then the RG models shouldn’t be outside of your ability.

Model grade for someone with a lot of model building experience

OK so you are a massively experienced builder. You are looking for a challenge and something that maybe can take centre stage on your display cabinet or shelf. Straight off the bat, as with the other levels of experience, I would say trying a HG model will let you get a feel for whether this is going to be for you or not. However if you are really looking to push yourself then you will want to look at the PG models. Note that you also need deeper pockets for these. Many people build the HG or RG models as well as performing various customisation’s etc to make the builds more challenging, more fun, for themselves, and to stretch themselves and get the end result they are specifically looking for.

Conclusion

Ultimately you get to choose what you are going to go for. Personally I tend to pick models I just like the look of. The newer HG kits still offer decent colour separation, along with decent detail. My second build is taking me forever as I try different customisation techniques. However ultimately whatever you choose as always take your time and enjoy the build.