I currently have a box in my living room. In that box should be 5 RG Gundam Aile Strike models. I picked them up partially because I think they look amazing, and partially because I may nab one for myself!
If you haven’t seen it the model looks like this:
Aile Strike
Background
The model was originally released in April 2011 and featured the latest advancements in joint technology. It was also the 3rd model released in the commemoration of 30 years of Gunpla.
The suit itself was first introduced in Gundam Seed (a show I still need to watch despite having already watched Gundam Seed Destiny … yes I know the wrong order:) ). It was originally piloted by Kita Yamato.
If you want to see a full detail of the kit, and the parts, and the general makup have a look at the information on dalong.net. Note you will want to have your translation software/plugin/extension of choice to hand unless you happen to read Korean.
One of the items I found interesting reading through the information there, is that like other RG models the hand consists of multiple parts. As a result this leads to it being split into a palm, the thumb as it’s own jointed part, the index finger as it’s own jointed part, and the middle, ring and little fingers all forming the final jointed part. Subsequently the separation provides a much larger range of posing and options with the hand. It is one of the items I find absolutely amazing with these kits.
Conclusion
As can be seen by looking at the model images, and the quite comprehensive images on the dalong website I think this looks like a phenomenal kit. The little details, like the styling on the shield, and the slightly tapered in calf / lower leg, all give this a really unique and stylish look. As a result I think I may just be talking myself into getting one into my backlog!
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I was curious, about making some custom decals. Now this wasn’t a case of I had to, this was purely an experiment. As the sticks are sometimes a bit jarring when they are applied, I thought I would look at how hard it would be to make my own decals.
Tools of the trade
After some research I found that really, you don’t need a lot of things to do this.
Water slide decal paper
A printer (suitable for use with the paper you bought)
A graphics application
Some topcoat
Water Slide decal paper can be bought online. It isn’t the cheapest, and it normally stipulates what type of printer it works with (for example inkjet). The printer, topcoat and graphics application I actually already had. So the only thing I had to buy specifically for this was the paper.
For the graphics manipulation I chose to use GIMP (available here) as it is free, and there are plenty of online tutorials that can help you get the best from it.
Making the images
To create my sample page / decals I decided to do some googling. I found some great examples that I used as inspiration for creating my first sheet. The final A4 page looked like this:
Decal Sheet
I realise there is a lot of wasted paper here but I just wanted to test it all out. Next I used the waterslide paper I purchased off ebay and printed the above image onto it.
I left it overnight then just to make sure the ink had dried. I realise this is overkill, but I wasn’t in a rush.
The next step was to apply top coat to the sheet. I opted for 3 coats leaving it well over 10 minutes between each coat.
I finally had my sheet to try!
Testing
Ok I won’t lie. My first test was a disaster. But I think that was more to do with me not understanding how to apply them, and less to do with the decal. Applying them was, once I had some practice, easy enough. I ended up adding some to my heavy arms leg launchers.
Side DecalsTop Decals
On the images above the little nuclear sign, and the red triangle and “caution” sign on the left image were custom ones from my print. The one on the image to the right is also a custom one.
Conclusion
All told I think the experiment was a success. I definitely found they worked best on lighter/white backgrounds but other than that I was very happy with the end result.
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So today this little gem (the Shiranui Second Yuya Bridges Ki kit) arrived with the postman:
Shiranui
The kit is by Kotobukiya and is from the MUV-LUV alternate total eclipse range. After watching the series I really liked some of the suits in there. I had a look around and found this one. I decided to take a chance and pick it up to see what it was like.
Riders
Before I get into it I should point out some riders. The kit is not to a specific scale so like the Bandai SD kits. I have never built one of the Bandai kits so I don’t have a benchmark to put it against. So my comments come with no real standard to measure against. So with that out of the way lets head in to it.
How was the build
The build was quick, which I expected. I still need to perform a strip down and cleanup, but it went together quickly and simply. I think that all these kits are likely to have similar build times. I have seen some Bandai kits like the Neo that look to be more complex in terms of number of parts, but I haven’t been fortunate to build any of those. My favourite part of this build were the semi transparent blue cast pieces. I found they add some real contrast to the model, and help it stand apart.
Although simple to build, I would say the instruction manual would benefit from some tweaks. In particular there are some steps that you need to do in specific order, and just a 1, 2, 3 etc. on them would make the build go more smoothly. It wasn’t a “massive” problem but it was a little irksome.
The joints all went together smoothly and the ball joints have a nice combination of friction and ease of movement.
So what does it look like?
Shiranui FrontRear AngleStraight BackFront side
As you can see from a straight build it looks ok. I think some panel lining on it would really make it come alive though. Also to be fair the pictures don’t show off the blue pieces which also add a nice dimension to it.
Conclusion
I think I would like to build a Bandai SD so I can compare and contrast. I would also like to get and build one of the bigger versions of the Kotobukiya kits to also compare. On the whole the build was a building version of a palate cleanser. It was simple, and fun. Ultimately a build should be fun. I found it a welcome change of pace to the MG and RG builds. Now, after my mini diversion, I’m ready to dive back into the painting and possibly my next RG on the list. With maybe a little trip to panel lining on this mini kit to just give it a little bit more of a lift.
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Today I am going to strip down a MG Heavyarms Foot and build it back up. On the whole this isn’t a difficult process, but for anyone who hasn’t built one and curious, here it goes!
The Parts
MG Foot Parts
With a little help from a parts separator I split apart the pieces. As you can see the MH Heavyarms foot consists of 8 separate parts.
First Step
Foot Body and top coverHow The foot will lookBody attached to base plate
I decided to show you the first two images to show what is happening. When the main foot bod (the big solid grey piece) is in place you will get a small “nub” style post sticking up through the hole of the red top cover. The first step is to attach the main body to the flat bottom of the foot.
Step 2
Foot bottom and top coverBottom of foot together
Next you need to attach the top red cover over the top. As you can see the small post sticks out of the hole. Everything should fit snugly. Any problems and the likelihood is nubs that need to be sanded back / removed.
Step 3
First Rear PieceWhite part attached
The next piece that needs to be attached is the white section of the heel. This slides into place and is quite snug. I found that it fits perfectly though.
Step 4
Heel sectionAttached Heel
Next is the heel piece. Again this fits in snugly and isn’t a problem. I found that all the pieces clipped together in a really satisfying way.
Step 5
White Front PieceAttached Front White Piece
After the heel I started to build up for the rest of the foot. The white section fits down into the post that sticks up from the hole in the middle of the large red part.
Step 6
Ankle Joint and FootConnected Ankle Joint
Now the main body of the foot is attached it is time to connect the ankle joint. The top of this part has a small ball joint to go into the bottom of the leg, and a larger ball joint that goes into the socket in the foot. This clicks in really snuggly, and I found, gives a good combination of friction and articulation.
Step 7
Front White PieceFront ConnectorAdded front section
The front section of the foot has a clip/connector that slots onto the front grey section of the ankle joint. Again I feel Bandai have done a great job as the pieces slide together and hold really nicely. That concludes the build up of the foot. A simple part of the build, but for me I always find them really satisfying due to the way the pieces go together, and the speed with which you see that model part take shape.
Articulation
Arched FootRight articulationLeft Articulation
As you can see in the images above the articulation is pretty good. I don’t think it is “the best” but it is certainly good enough for Heavyarms! Lets be honest, with all that weaponry the suit is likely to spend most of its time in some form of standing position. The left and right articulation on the ankle is adequate, and the arching on the foot is about the same, in my opinion.
Conclusion
There we have a mini tear down and rebuild of the foot on the MG Heavyarms. I found taking it apart and rebuilding it oddly therapeutic. However, as soon as I had it apart I had it back together again! As you may have noticed I haven’t panel lined this model. I may do that at some point, but first I need to put on a matt coat!
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Recently I got asked about the cheap stands or bases, and whether they were a real viable alternative to the more standard bases. You can often, if you shop around, get 3 or 4 of the cheaper bases for the price of one of the standard ones.
The standard ones look like this (or some variation on this):
Standard Action Base
The cheaper options normally look something like this:
Unbranded Stand
Both sets of bases can be purchased in a variety of colours. I’ll admit I favour clear bases as I can always paint them if I want them a different colour.
The “Standard” base
There are loads of reasons to get one of these bases. They have a nice aesthetic to them, and if you want one, they aren’t crazy expensive. They have the attachments to allow you to connect them to a variety of models with no fuss. But this isn’t an article about those!
Unbranded Base
However, despite the reasons for getting a standard base, there are other options, and they can be just as effective. The generic unbranded stands normally comes flat packed, with multiple screws and parts to put together. As in the image above these are normally assembled with the grasping arms on the end. However these can sometimes cause problems where the models like to split. The torso and upper part goes one way and the waist and legs go another. This can be a real pain when trying to post a model. So what can we do with them.
Total Custom Base
Zaku Rear StandCloseup Zaku Rear Stand
As you can see in the images above I used the arms and grabber from the cheap base to provide the hold for my Zaku. The whole process for making that base can be found here.
Use it as is
Closeup Rear BaseFront on standRear on Stand
As you can see from the images above the two pieces along with the grabbing arms allow me to elevate the model and provide a lot of options for poses. However, these still have the issue that the model will often have a tendency to come apart at the waist while tightening the arms of the stand to hold the model.
Remove the Hands / Grasper
Front Blown AwayConnector CloseupSide View Blown AwayBlown Away
As you can see from the images above, I only used 1 of the two arms, and then rather than connecting the graspers, I used the adapter that goes into the grasper to go into the hold in the under side of the model. It was, I admit, a tight squeeze, but it did go in without any filing. This again offers a whole range of dynamic poses.
Conclusion
If you like the standard bases, or one of the more scenic bases then go for it, they are lovely. If however, you want to make the most of the cheaper bases then as you can see above, there are a lot of poses you can get with them where they will look awesome. I’m going to have a look and see if I can do more around the options to use them with other models. I may put up a post on that after I have had chance to look.
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Advert / Stock 05/02/2023 is a quick update on the stock and the shop and a blatant advert for the shop 🙂
I have had, what could be called a mini re-stock of some items. This week a got a handful of MG and RG kits in. At the moment I also have the HG Guels Dilanza in stock here. I also have an MG Buster and MG Justice available also. Why not use the links at the bottom to have a browse and see if something takes your eye. I still have the PG Unicorn available if you fancy a challenge!
As you may be aware I still have some models that the boxes were damaged from packing / transit. I’m trying to shift them directly if possible so that it is easier to communicate any box damage. If you are interested in any of them they are:
RG Freedom £26.99 + P&P
RG_Freedom_2
HG Setsuro £25.99 + P&P
SETSURO
HGUC Gundam RX-0 Unic Full Arm Dest Red 1/144 £34.99 + P&P
HGUC_Unicorn_Red
BB Gundam Destiny £9.99 + P&P
Destiny
They are all stunning models which would look fantastic in any collection. You can also just browse the shop which is available here. Note the models above are not listed there at present due to the boxes. However, if you are interested in them please contact me directly. I also have lots of other models available on the shop, as well as the awesome GUNPRIMER Balancers and starter kit and Raser products. You can see them here.
That concludes this weeks “Advert / Stock 05/02/2023” roundup. Thank you for taking the time to read this. If you haven’t already done so please like and follow us on our social media platforms and checkout our website!
I will be honest, I had a few options around this post. I wasn’t sure whether to just look at it from the point of how many is too many when looking at the model count. But then I could look at it from the backlog point of view. Then I realised I may as well write a paragraph or two on each!
Total Model Count
So I guess the first angle I should look at is can you have too many models? I mean the obvious answer is obviously no! However, should you look at packing / storing some and displaying a select few models, or would you rather get them all out? I think, the reality, for a lot of modellers, is that their display space is limited. If that isn’t the case then I say go wild! Shelves, display cases, even from the ceiling or magnetised! If you have the space then go for as many models as you are happy with.
As I say I think for the majority of us we have limited display space. At the moment I’m using the top of my freezer to stand 3 models and a Harry Potter Weasley’s Wizard Wheezes shop model. The space there is limited. I will, I think have to look at a system. Ultimately I think I may look to break them into seasons or months, and cycle them round. The only model that I have that will survive this drastic measure is the Double X. It was my first Gundam and I love it nubs and all.
GX-9901-DX GUNDAM DOUBLE X
I often see people shifting their collections to either make space, or to make room for other models. There certainly seem to be plenty of people who are happy to buy pre-built models. Some to display, some to use as parts, some for kit bashes, and others to practice techniques on. So I guess once you have had your enjoyment from a model is it best to just let it go and find a new home?
Ultimately I would say, if you are happy, then there is no count that is too high!
Backlog
I recently asked a variation of this question on a forum. Ultimately the feedback would seem to be that there is no such thing as too big a backlog. For some people they buy build and buy again. Others prefer to ensure that there is no chance they will ever run out. Whichever side of the fence you fall, or if you are somewhere in between, it is fair to say that there is no right or wrong answer.
Again, as with display space, having space to keep your backlog can become an issue. A lot of people are working with limited space, and I get the feeling that a lot of peoples backlog size is dictated as much by available space as it is desire to not have too many there.
My backlog isn’t too bad at the moment. I have 1 MG, 1RG, and the USS Voyager to build. I have however also got a Kotobukiya Muv-Luv Shiranui Second Yuya Bridges model coming from ebay. I also put in an order with my supplier to try and get a hold of some of the models for the shop … well ok I ordered 2 of 1 of the models… the other 6 or so were for me … I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it!
Conclusion
How many is too many is a very subjective question. There are likely to be people in your life who tell you that you have too many models, or kits to build. I would say it is your hobby and as long as it is not disruptive, as long as you aren’t spending money you need for food, heating, rent etc. then where you spend your money is your decision. A bit like the gambling adverts say, when the fun stops stop. It is similar with the models. As long as you are enjoying the hobby then carry on. Personally I am loving all the options, and exploring the painting, lighting, and dioramas, as well as just straight builds. As long as I am enjoying myself then I will continue to build!
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Airbrush clogging is a problem I have had since returning to modelling, and deciding to look to do custom paint jobs on some I have returned to using my airbrush. Airbrushes have, in my opinion, many advantages with traditional brush painting. Don’t get me wrong, there are still parts that I favour brush painting for. However, if you want to get good smooth coverage, and beautiful blends an airbrush really is outstanding.
The setup
Now fortunately for me, I still had my original airbrush compressor and tank. It does, I admit require new feet, but on the whole it works. The brush itself is an Iwata Neo that I picked up a few months ago. I do have some cheaper brushes that I may use for more general base coats etc.
The problem
So as the title would suggest I have been having major issues with my airbrush clogging. On the whole this happens most when trying to do the base coating on the parts. I decided to do some research on potential causes, and potential fixes.
Iwata Neo
Dirty Airbrush
So the first thing I came across was that the airbrush itself could be dirty. In as much that if there is old paint / paint particles / chunks in the airbrush that haven’t been cleaned out they could cause it to clog.
The solution to this one is pretty simple. Strip the airbrush down and thoroughly clean. If there are manufacturers instructions on cleaning the airbrush then follow those. If not there are loads of youtube tutorials on cleaning airbrushes. This one for example goes through it in quite a lot of detail.
Damaged Needle
So a good way to check the needle is to remove it from the airbrush, then draw it backwards through a piece of tissue paper. If you feel any snagging or catching you potentially have a bent tip. At that point replacing the needle is really your only option.
Paint Viscosity
Basically this is how watery / flowy the paint is. On the whole the advice I got on the forums was you want your primer to flow with the consistency of milk. If the paint is to thick then it can clog the airbrush and give you real issues. At this point you are going to want to tip out any remaining paint, and start trying to clean it with airbrush cleaner. I’ll often try and get it to back flow to shift anything stuck back into the cleaner to help dissolve it.
If you don’t know what back flow is you cover the end of the airbrush with your finger (please ensure the needle cap is on) and then activate the airbrush as if you were going to spray a little paint. The air is forced back and into the paint pot. If you have cleaner or water or paint in there it will bubble a little. Do this a few times, then empty the pot and clean again and test spraying. If you really can’t get it to unblock then do a total strip and clean of the airbrush.
Time
In essence as soon as you have put that paint into the pot it is going to start to dry. Dried paint makes bits which can clog the airbrush. Don’t put too much paint in the pot and feel free to give it a rinse through every few minutes to keep it clear and working properly.
Dry Tip
This is quite a simple one. The paint is being blown out the end of your airbrush. When this happens some of it will dry, teeny tiny bits. The longer you airbrush for, the more teeny tiny bits will stick eventually messing up the air flow and clogging the brush. One tip I found was to keep a small bit of sponge to hand soaked in water or cleaner or the like, and every couple of minutes or so give the tip a clean. Essentially just keep removing those teeny tiny bits and keep the air flowing. The other side effect of not doing this is you may periodically get bits blown off the needle onto your work area ruining what you are painting.
Conclusion
For my personal journey I’m due to try again this weekend. Testing different things to try and alleviate my clogging issues. My advice for anyone having problems would be change 1 thing at a time. Eliminate it as a problem, then change the next. You want to know ultimately what fixed your problem. In all likelihood it will be a combination of things.
Airbrush clogging is without a doubt a frustration. But with time, practice and patience, I’m sure I’ll work it out, and I recon you can too!
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Guess The Model Part 6 is the latest instalment in my current model build. As I follow the manual and build it section by section. If you missed them the previous parts are available here:
Today I am sort of doing a “everything else” post. I would feel like a bit of a cheat if I strung out the smallest parts of the model! So today I am going to roundup everything that was left to build on the core of the model.
The Parts
Leg PartsSupportsSkirtWaist Joint
As you can see above, as well as the 21(ish) parts I had to assemble for the leg, there were miscellaneous other parts to bring it together and finish the main build.
The Finished Article (ish)
Bent LegNub before cleaningRepolished after removingCompletedVisible Completed!
I was really happy with the build of this model. It is, in my opinion, a really relaxing build. There was nothing there I would class as “taxing” but a fantastic model to build while listening to the radio, or an audio book. All the parts went together (sometimes with a very satisfying snicking noise as they clicked into place).
The foot and nub removal and cleaning I did a whole post on here. In essence I used the GUNPRIMER balancers to clean up the nub and re polish the foot. I’m really happy with how well they work!
Conclusion
So there you have it! If you haven’t already guessed this is the RX-80BR Black Rider model. It is a HGUC kit, and despite its simplicity, is really enjoyable to build.
I have, as noted previously, taken advice from those with more experience and avoided using the stickers on this kit. My plan is to undercoat some sections and paint the red on. I am still wondering what, if anything, I should do on top of that. However with so many kits, and so little time, I had better probably keep it realistic.
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Guess The Model Part 5 is the latest instalment in my current model build. As I follow the manual and build it section by section. If you missed them the previous parts are available here:
Today the manual moved on to the legs. This comes with the foot and ankle.
The Parts
Leg Parts
As can be seen from the image there are approximately 21 pieces to form the leg. This includes the foot and ankle joint. Cutting the pieces from the runner was, as is normally the case with Bandai models, a simple process. The clean-up on the parts also didn’t take too long to complete. In the image I had partially completed the clean-up, but I still had some work to do.
Assembled Leg
Angled Front Leg ViewSide Leg ViewFront Leg View Tilted AnkleFront Leg ViewBent LegInner Leg
I found building the leg really enjoyable. None of the parts, for me at least, were too small. They also have, as is normally the case with the Bandai kits, really close tolerances, so the pieces fit together snugly. The part that fits onto the outside of the calf adds nice definition to the leg and some extra detail. As you can see from the pictures I was happy with the level of articulation the kit has in the legs. The knee joint bends really well and there is enough movement in the ankle to help make multiple poses stable.
Conclusion
As with the arms, this was a very smooth, and pleasant experience to build the leg. There were no real “challenges” to it. I found myself able to just enjoy the build process, the cutting, cleaning and assembly of the part.
I’m guessing a lot of you will already know what model it is by now! If not feel free to guess away. I will continue on with the build, as step by step I edge it towards completion!
Thank you for taking the time to read this. If you haven’t already done so please like and follow us on our social media platforms and checkout our website!
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